How to Change Your Oil Step-by-Step

An oil change is the classic first DIY job. It's simple, it saves you $50 to $80 every time, and it teaches you how to safely get under your car. If you've never turned a wrench on your own vehicle, start here.

This guide walks through the whole process. Read it once before you begin, gather your stuff, and plan on about 45 minutes if nothing fights you. Rusty drain plugs and tight filter housings can add time welcome to Windsor car ownership.

What you'll need

Check your owner's manual for oil type and capacity. Most cars take 4 to 6 litres of oil. Common grades in Ontario are 5W-30 and 0W-20, but yours might differ.

You'll also need a new oil filter, a drain pan that holds at least 6 litres, a socket wrench for the drain plug (usually 14mm or 17mm), an oil filter wrench, jack and jack stands or access to a lift, rags, gloves, and a funnel. A torque wrench helps for the drain plug but isn't strictly required your first time.

Pick up an oil filter that matches your car auto parts stores can look it up by year, make, and model. When in doubt, bring the old filter with you when you buy the new one.

Step 1: Warm up the engine slightly

Drive the car for five to ten minutes or let it idle until the temp gauge moves off cold. Warm oil flows out faster and carries more grit with it. Don't run it hot, you don't want to burn yourself on the drain plug.

Park on level ground. Shut off the engine. If you're using a lift bay at PTP's Lift & Fix, drive onto the lift, set the parking brake, and chock the wheels before raising the car.

Step 2: Get the car safely off the ground

Locate your front jack points, check the manual if you're unsure. Never jack from random spots under the car. Lift the front end, set jack stands under the frame rails or designated stand points, and lower the car onto the stands.

Give the car a firm push to confirm it's stable. On a two-post lift, align the lift pads with the manufacturer's lift points, raise the car, and lock the lift before going underneath.

Never work under a car supported by a jack alone. Jacks fail. Stands or a locked lift don't.

Step 3: Drain the old oil

Slide your drain pan under the oil pan drain plug, it's the bolt on the bottom of the engine oil pan. Use your socket wrench to loosen the plug counterclockwise. Go slowly once it's loose; oil will pour out fast.

Let it drain for ten to fifteen minutes. On rust-belt cars, that plug might be stubborn. If it won't budge, try a breaker bar or spray a little penetrating oil and wait. Don't strip it, a stripped drain plug is a headache you don't need.

While it drains, check the crush washer on the plug. Many plugs use a replaceable washer or gasket. If yours looks crushed or damaged, swap it for a new one before reinstalling.

Step 4: Replace the oil filter

The filter is a round canister, usually on the side or bottom of the engine. Position your drain pan under it, the filter holds oil too, and it will spill when you remove it.

Use your oil filter wrench to loosen it counterclockwise. Once it's hand-loose, unscrew it carefully and tip the open end into the pan. Old oil will run down your arm. Gloves help.

Wipe the filter mounting surface clean with a rag. Make sure the old filter's rubber gasket came off with the filter, a double gasket will cause a massive leak.

Dip your finger in fresh oil and rub it on the rubber gasket of the new filter. Hand-tighten the new filter until the gasket contacts the surface, then turn it another three-quarters to one full turn. Don't crank it on with a wrench unless the filter instructions say otherwise.

Step 5: Reinstall the drain plug

Wipe the drain hole area clean. Thread the plug in by hand first so you don't cross-thread it. Tighten with your socket wrench snug, not gorilla tight. If you have a torque wrench, the spec is usually around 25 to 30 Nm, but check your manual.

A stripped or over-tightened drain plug can ruin your day. Tight enough that it won't leak is the goal.

Step 6: Add fresh oil

Lower the car back to the ground if you raised it. Pop the hood and find the oil fill cap on top of the engine, it usually has an oil can icon on it.

Insert your funnel and pour in the amount your manual specifies, minus about half a litre to start. Wait a minute, then check the dipstick.

Pull the dipstick, wipe it clean, reinsert it fully, pull it out again, and check the level. It should sit between the min and max marks. Add oil in small amounts until you're in range. Overfilling is bad for the engine take your time here.

Step 7: Start the engine and check for leaks

Start the car and let it run for thirty seconds. Watch the oil pressure light, it should go off within a few seconds. Shut off the engine and wait two minutes.

Check under the car for drips at the drain plug and filter. A small smear is different from active dripping. If something's leaking, tighten the plug or filter slightly and recheck.

Check the dipstick again with the car level and the engine off. Top up if needed. You're looking for the level to drop slightly after the filter fills.

Step 8: Dispose of the old oil properly

Pour the used oil from your drain pan into the empty bottles the new oil came in. Take it to a recycling centre, most auto parts stores in Windsor accept used oil for free. Don't dump it in the drain or on the ground. It's illegal and bad for the environment.

Write down the date and mileage so you know when the next change is due. Most modern oils and cars go 8,000 to 10,000 km between changes, but check your manual. Short trips in cold Ontario winters can mean changing more often.

Common mistakes to avoid

Forgetting to refill the oil before starting the engine is the big one double-check before you turn the key. Leaving the old filter gasket on, over-tightening the drain plug, and using the wrong oil weight are the other usual suspects.

If your car has a cartridge-style filter (a replaceable element inside a housing instead of a spin-on can), the steps are slightly different, you'll need to open the housing, swap the element and O-ring, and torque the cap to spec. Look up your specific setup before starting.

First time? Doing it on a lift in a proper bay beats fighting a jack in the snow. Once you've done it once, you'll wonder why you ever paid someone else for this.